Foreign Service Flicks!

Updated November2024

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From the Golden Age of Hollywood to today's digital streaming services, the Foreign Service has routinely served as a plot line on the Silver Screen. Unfortunately, we diplomats are usually portrayed as cocktail-sipping elitists, bumbling bureaucrats, or James Bond wannabes. But if you dig deep, you can find some real gems in the archives.

This list of Foreign Service Films and TV shows was first compiled by my amazing former boss, Leslie Bassett (ret), when she was DCM Seoul and later Ambassador to Paraguay. Her list first appeared in her awesome internal DOS leadership blog. A similar list later appeared in the Foreign Service Journal.  I used them as the basis for my own list during the 2014-2015 TV season, which featured an unusual number of FS-related films -- most of them since cancelled. 

This compilation includes films and television shows portraying the Foreign Service, the U.S. State Department, or diplomats in general. Most of the films on this list portray the U.S. Foreign Service, but some titles also cover the life and work of British, Canadian and other members of the international diplomatic community.

To qualify for our list, the Foreign Service must play a major plot point, or feature a key character who is a diplomat or employee of one of the various U.S. foreign service agencies. Or a character works for another government organization - real or fictional - who is somehow tied to an Embassy or Consulate (in government-speak, they are under Chief of Mission authority). 

Many of the synopsis and movie posters below are from IMDB.com. Each synopsis is followed by an appropriate reference. Where none exists, the description was written by The Two Crabs.  Our next goal is to watch or rewatch and review every flick here. If we missed any titles, please share!  So with no further ado, we present:

 

The Two Crabs' Ultimate Compendium of Foreign Service Flicks

In chronological order by release date:

1939 - 1959

Espionage-agent-movie-poster-1939-1020701357Espionage Agent (1939): When Barry Corvall discovers that his new bride is a possible enemy agent, he resigns from the diplomatic service to go undercover to route out an espionage ring planning to destroy American industrial capability. (IMDB)

 

Panama Patrol (1939): The head of the cipher bureau, Phillip Waring, is about to marry his secretary, Helen Lane, when he is informed that the State Department has discovered a message that must be decoded. With the information given, Waring and his assistant, Lieutenant Murdock, investigate but their every move seems to be known to their alien adversaries. Helen discovers that Arlie Johnson, interpreter for the bureau is the real leader of the spy ring but, before she can relay the information, she falls into the hands of Johnson and his spy-ring henchmen. (IMDB)

 

The Dippy Diplomat (1945): (Animated short) A newspaper announces that Ivan Awfulitch, the famous ambassador, is due to have a barbecue with local resident Wally Walrus. Unfortunately, while Wally is preparing the barbecue, the scent of the steaks he is cooking attracts an unwelcome guest in the form of Woody Woodpecker. Wally throws him out but when Woody hears of the visitor he is expecting, he dresses as Awfulitch himself and finally gets the remainder of Wally’s food. (IMDB)

 

MV5BMTU0OTA0NTQzNF5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwOTAwMDUyMQ@@._V1_SY317_CR4,0,214,317_AL_State Department — File 649 (1949): U.S. Foreign Service officer matches wits with a Chinese warlord to try to save American citizens threatened with execution.  This is probably one of the most well-known Foreign Service movies. The Foreign Service Journal wrote a detailed history of this underrated film, calling it an "our cinematic showcase." In the UK, the film was re-titled as, "Assignment in China." The film was directed by B-movie director Sam Newfield under the pseudonym Peter Stewart. 

 

Diplomatic-Courier-1952 Diplomatic Courier (1952): In post-war Austria, a State Department diplomatic courier Mike Kellis (swashbuckler star Tyrone Power) is assigned to to fly to Salzburg and meet his old friend to pick up a top-secret document. But trailing Russian spies ruin the day and our hero spends the rest of the film evading getting captured or killed. Trivia: Power served in WWII as a cargo pilot in Iwo Jima & Okinawa, but sadly died at just age 44 of a heart attack. More trivia: Power is on the cover of The Beatles' album Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band (IMDB, Wikipedia).

 

Call Me Madam (1953):  Washington hostess Sally Adams (Ethel Merman) becomes a Truman-era US ambassador to a European grand duchy. (IMDB)

 

Dream Wife (1953): Clemson Reade, a business tycoon with marriage on his mind, and Effie, a U.S. diplomat, are a modern couple. Unfortunately there seems to be too much business and not enough pleasure on the part of Effie. When Clemson meets Tarji, a princess trained in all the arts of pleasing men, he decides he wants an old fashioned girl. Princess Tarji’s father is king of oil-rich Bukistan. Because of the oil situation and to maintain good political relations during the courtship between Clemson & Tarji, the State Department assigns a diplomat to maintain protocol until the wedding. Effie!” (IMDB)

 

DownloadBlonde Bait (1956): U.S. State Department agent Kent Foster, on the trail of a murderous traitor, Nick Randall, hopes to trap Randall through singer/stripper Angela Booth. The latter has promised to marry Randall on New Year’s Eve, even though she is not to see him until then. However, she lands in prison. Foster arranges for her escape, with the aid of “Granny” Ramsey, in the hopes she will lead him to Randall. The plan is snarled and Angela slips away. She manages to meet Randall, and when he slaps her, she realizes that all she has heard about him is true. (IMDB)

 

The Ambassador’s Daughter (1956): Joan Fisk, daughter of the American ambassador to France, is bored with entertaining the wives of visiting V.I.P.s and decides to conduct an experiment. She accepts a date with an American G.I. and tries to prove to her father and his friends that not all soldiers are wolves. But by the end of their first date, when wine, music and the young man’s charms have swept her off her feet, she realizes that she may have won more than the bet. (IMDB)

Barbarian_Geisha_1958 The Barbarian and the Geisha (1958): Based on the real-life story of American diplomat Townsend Harris, it stars John Wayne as the Consul General to Japan in 1856 during the final years of the Tokugawa shogunate. The host nation locals and officials mistrust all foreigners, and the local governor refuses to accept Harris' diplomatic credentials. Eventually diplomacy wins out, and the Governor is so pleased that he gifts Harris a Geisha - who most certainly does not abide by U.S. Federal Government Rules on Gifts.  The film was a rare flop by acclaimed filmmaker John Huston (The Maltese Falcon, The Treasure of the Sierra Madre, Prizzi's Honor).  

1960-1979

The_Ugly_American_poster (1) The Ugly American (1963): An intelligent, articulate scholar, Harrison MacWhite (Marlon Brando), survives a hostile Senate confirmation hearing at the hands of conservatives to become ambassador to Sarkan, a southeast Asian country where civil war threatens a tense peace. Despite his knowledge, once he's there, MacWhite sees only a dichotomy between the U.S. and Communism. He can't accept that anti-American sentiment might be a longing for self-determination and nationalism. So, he breaks from his friend Deong, a local opposition leader, ignores a foreman's advice about slowing the building of a road, and tries to muscle ahead. What price must the country and his friends pay for him to get some sense? (IMDB)


EmbassyEmbassy (1972) - The poster alone makes me want to join the Foreign Service. And it stars Richard Roundtree, better known as Shaft. A Russian spy penetrates into the U.S. Embassy in Beirut, Lebanon to try to kill a Soviet defector under asylum there.

 

The Tamarind Seed (1974):  While on holiday in Barbados to recover from the lingering effects of a love affair that ended badly, Judith Farrow (Julie Andrews) meets Feodor Sverdlov (Omar Sharif), a handsome Russian. They find pleasure in each other’s company as they visit colorful places on the island, but there are complications to their budding romance after their holiday in the tropical paradise comes to an end. Problems arise due to geopolitical concerns of the Cold War, for Judith is the assistant to an important minister serving in the British Home Office in London, and Feodor is the Soviet air attaché assigned in Paris to Soviet General Golitsyn. British intelligence officer, Jack Loder, suspects the Sverdlov is attempting to recruit Judith to work as a Soviet spy, and this is in fact what Feodor tells his boss that he is attempting to accomplish. Feodor tells Judith that this is a way for him to be able to see her without bringing about suspicion from his people. Due to somewhat similar thinking on the British side, she is encouraged to see him as well. Loder is attempting to discover the identity of an undercover Soviet agent that has been sending confidential reports to Moscow. Soon he also is told to help a Soviet agent who wishes to defect to the West. (IMDB)

 

The Wind and the Lion (1975):  Loosely based on the real-life Perdicaris incident of 1904, The Wind and the Lion featured an A-list cast of the time including Sean Connery, Candace Bergen, Brian Keith, and John Huston as Secretary of State John Hay.  Bergen plays Eden Pedecaris, an American expat living in Morocco. She and her two children are kidnapped by a Berber rebel leader (Connery).  After the American Consul to Tangier is unable to secure the release of the AmCits, President Teddy Roosevelt politicizes the event and deploys the Navy to rescue the Americans. The film was nominated for two music Oscars. It was written and directed by John Milius, best known as the screenwriter of Apocalypse Now and Red Dawn.

 

Water (1975): Comedy-adventure flick starring the suave Michael Cain as a  British diplomat to a West Indian island nation finds his idyllic existence thrown into chaos when a large American drilling company finds a huge source of natural mineral water there.

 

936full-the-omen-poster The Omen (1976; remade 2006): A U.S. diplomat (Gregory Peck) and his wife Katherine (Lee Remick) adopt the infant Damien in Rome, then find out he's the Antichrist! When the diplomat becomes U.S. Ambassador to the UK, things go from bad to worse as seemingly everyone around Damien mysteriously dies. One of the scariest horror movies ever that spawned numerous bad sequels and copy-cats.

 

Midnight Express (1978):  Billy Hayes is caught attempting to smuggle drugs out of Turkey. The Turkish courts decide to make an example of him, sentencing him to more than 30 years in prison. While his family attempt to seek his release through legal and diplomatic channels, a fellow inmate tells him the only way out is the "midnight express," meaning to escape. (IMDB)

Caravans (1978): In 1948, at the U.S. embassy in Zadestan, a young diplomat is ordered to find the missing daughter of an influential U.S. Senator. It stars Anthony Quinn and based on a novel of the same name. (IMDB)

 

1980 - 1999

MV5BMjIxNDE1MDE3N15BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwMzc3NDg5MQ@@._V1_SY317_CR5,0,214,317_AL_Missing (1982): Starring Jack Lemmon and Sissy Spacek and based on the real-life experiences of Ed Horman, this is the story of an American father of conservative background who comes to a South American country to search for his missing son, a journalist. Ed joins with his daughter-in-law Beth, who like her husband is politically polarized from the father, in prying through the bureaucracy and dangerous political intrigue in search of their son and husband. Little by little, the father comes to realize that his own beloved government is not telling him the truth. (IMDB)

 

Who Dares, Wins (1982): When SAS Captain Peter Skellen is thrown out of the service for gross misconduct due to unnecessary violence and bullying, he is soon recruited by The People’s Lobby, a fanatical group aiming to hold several US dignitaries hostage. But Skellen’s dismissal is a front to enable him to get close to the terrorist group. Can he get close enough to stop the Lobby from creating an international incident? (IMDB)

 

Ambassador1985The Ambassador (1984): Robert Mitchum plays a controversial U.S. ambassador to Israel who tries to solve the Palestinian Question while being criticized by all factions, which takes a turn when his wife begins having an affair with a PLO chief. Rock Hudson (in his last theatrical movie role) plays Mitchum’s chief security officer who saves his life in an assassination attempt and tries to help him resolve the conflicts around them. (IMDB)

 

Protocol (1984): The US needs to convince the visiting emir Khala'ad of Othar to allow an American military base in his strategic realm. Clueless nightclub waitress Sunny Ann Davis (Goldie Hawn) accidentally spots and stops a terrorist shooting at the president and his royal guest. Her naive comments charm the press, so the State Department recruits her for its Protocol. She falls in love with charming Middle East desk chief Michael Ransome, who rather resigns then help trick her into a 'contact mission' to Othar, where the emir's plan with her unexpectedly stirs a revolution. (IMDB)

 

Chess (1984): Before "The Queen's Gambit," there was "Chess - a West End/Broadway play that was better known for its successful album with music by ABBA's Benny and Bjorn, and '80s New Wave hit, "One Night in Bangkok". It's not a movie -- yet; rumors have persisted for years. But I'm including it for a musical number, "Embassy Lament," involving two curmudgeonly British diplomats complaining of asylum seekers and re-enacting a fake visa interview. Sample lyrics: "Oh, my dear how boring, He's defecting, Just like all the others He's expecting, Us to be impressed, With what he's done here, But he hasn't stopped, To think about the paperwork, His gesture causes--We've an embassy to run here!" 

 

220px-Spieslikeusposter Spies Like Us (1985): A classic John Landis 80s flick starring Chevy Chase as Emmitt Fitz-Hume, a State Department civil servant Information Officer (IO) from a Foreign Service legacy family, and Dan Akroyd as Austin Milbarge, a DIA code breaker. The film begins with the two hapless heroes taking the Foreign Service Written Exam in hopes of moving up the DOS ladder. They get caught cheating on the FSWE and end up as expendable decoys on an intelligence operation. Zany antics abound. Trivia: Dan Akroyd's love interest is his real-life wife.  

 

Lethal Weapon 2 (1989):  South Africa's Foreign Service plays a starring role in this action flick, and not in a good light. It was one of the last Hollywood films to tackle the issue of Apartheid before the system collapsed a few years later. The story follows an evil South African Chief of Mission and his lackey diplomats use the cover of diplomatic immunity to engage in criminal activities. Our heroes Detectives Riggs (Mel Gibson) and Murtaugh (Danny Glover) likewise break every Geneva Convention in the book in their pursuit of the bad guys. The plot thickens when Riggs (Mel Gibson) falls for the Consulate's OMS. Riggs eventually revokes the henchman's diplomatic immunity in a creative fashion, giving new meaning to the phrase, "persona non grata."  

 

Visas and Virtue (1997): Winner of the 1998 Academy Award for Best Short Film. Haunted by the sight of hundreds of Jewish refugees outside the consulate gates, a Japanese diplomat and his wife, stationed in Kaunas, Lithuania at the beginning of World War II, must decide how much they are willing to risk. Inspired by a true story, VISAS AND VIRTUE explores the moral and professional dilemmas that Consul General Chiune "Sempo" Sugihara faces in making a life or death decision: defy his own government's direct orders and risk his career, by issuing live-saving transit visas, or obey orders and turn his back on humanity. (IMDB). 

 

Four Days in September (1997): A Brazilian film about urban guerrilla fighters who kidnap the American Ambassador. Now, the diplomat's life hangs in the balance - helplessly caught between a government unwilling to cooperate - and his fear of the captors themselves. The film stars Alan Arkin, who also appeared in one of the best films on this list, "Argo." (IMDB).

 

Diplomaticsiege Diplomatic Siege (1999): B-list film starring formerly A-list actors like Darryl Hannah, Tom Berenger and Peter Weller. When Serbian terrorists take over U.S. Embassy Bucharest, Romania, they threaten to execute one hostage per hour unless their demands are met. There is a ridiculous side plot involving nuclear weapons stored in the embassy basement!

 

2000-2009

Rules of Engagement (2000): Action / courtroom drama about a military JAG attorney (Tommy Lee Jones) who must defend an officer (Samuel L. Jackson) on trial for ordering his troops to fire on civilians after they stormed a U.S. Embassy in a Middle Eastern country. (IMDB)

 

Mexico City (2000): After divorce and the death of her two children, Mitch is headed for Oaxaca with her brother Sam, a photographer. During their one-day layover in Mexico City, Sam goes out for a night on the town and doesn’t return. Mitch goes for help to the American embassy and starts her own search with the aid of Pedro, a cabbie. (IMDB)

 

American_embassy-showThe American Embassy (2002): A short-lived Fox television teen angst series that only lasted about 6 episodes. It stars Arija Bareikis as Emma Brody first-tour consular officer at US Embassy London. Emma is young, single and beautiful woman who joins the Foreign Service to escape from her cheating boyfriend and dysfunctional family in Toledo (never a good enough reason to join the FS!) In London, she squares off with her colleagues and superiors in dealing with various political cases. Unfortunately, the show has never been released on video or streaming service, but you can find bootlegs online. Episode 2 - and ONLY Episode 2 - can be found on YouTube.  Takeaways from Episode 2: never mail "toys" via diplomatic pouch, don't discuss classified information in the Embassy lobby or London streets; and hire a dozen EEO officers...STAT! 

 

118832921_10158819774044443_8774276570852381834_n The Bourne Identity (2002): It's a stretch to call "The Bourne Identity" a Foreign Service film, but I'm including it here because 1) we've received multiple requests that it deserves recognition, 2) it's a fracking AWESOME film and 3) it features a key scene that is single-handedly responsible for perpetuating the Hollywood myth of U.S. Embassies abroad, complete with obligatory rude consular officer and a platoon of heavily-armed Marines. In this alternate universe there exists a U.S. Embassy in Zurich (it's actually in Bern), and U.S. citizens can enter a U.S. Embassy without an appointment or security screening simply by declaring, "I'm an American." And don't think we missed the fact that Jason's name in his fake Russian passport is complete gibberish that literally reads "Lshtshfum, Ashef"!  And while we're on the topic of Hollywood myths - no, U.S. Embassies are NOT "U.S. soil". 

 

I Witness (2003): Jim Rhodes is a human rights worker in Tijuana for a few days to make sure that union elections are fair at a maquiladora owned by a U.S. corporation. In quick succession, the police assault the strikers, the bodies of 27 peasants turn up in an abandoned tunnel that has caved in, and two U.S. teen bikers are missing. As Rhodes pokes around and speculates on connections among these events, he’s beaten up, warned off by a drug dealer’s attorney, and given varying degrees of help by the U.S. State Department rep, the U.S. Trade rep, and an honest local cop. It’s always about money, but whose is at stake and how cheap is Rhodes’s life?  (IMDB)

 

MV5BMTg1MTYyMDE2NF5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwNTk1NTAzMQ@@._V1_SX214_AL_The Constant Gardener (2005): Mild-mannered British diplomat Justin Quayle (Ralph Fiennes) is assigned to British Embassy in Kenya. He is accompanied by his wife, Tessa (Rachel Weisz). After Tessa is murdered, Quayle  After his wife is murdered in Kenya, Justin, with a passion for gardening, decides to uncover the truth behind the death of his wife - with no regards for the consequences.

 

The White Countess (2005): Set in 1930s Shanghai, where a blind American diplomat (Ralph Fiennes, in his second role as a diplomat) develops a curious relationship with a young Russian refugee who works odd -- and sometimes illicit -- jobs to support members of her dead husband's aristocratic family. (IMDB)

 

American Visa (2005): Bolivian film. After being denied an American visa, a Bolivian professor becomes involved in a web of criminal activities, holds-up the American consulate and falls for a beautiful prostitute from the Bolivian lowlands. (IMDB)

 

Cooking with Stella (2009): A warmhearted social satire about a Canadian diplomat and her chef husband who are posted to New Delhi. Upon arrival they inherit a household of Indian servants headed by the charming, totally inspiring – and wily -cook, Stella (Seema Biswas). When Stella agrees to become Michael’s cooking guru and to teach him traditional Indian dishes, little does he know that she’s cooking up a scheme of her own. (IMDB)

 

MV5BMzA4NjA2NjI2NV5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwOTEzNzI2Mg@@._V1_SX214_AL_Julie & Julia (2009): Based on a true story of the Foreign Service's most famous EFM, Julia Child (Meryl Streep) is the wife of a diplomat assigned to a 4-year posting at US Embassy Paris. Looking for ways to pass her time, Julia takes cooking lessons at the Cordon Bleu, where she discovers her true passion. The film time travels between Julia's story and that of young writer Julie Powell (Amy Adams). Underemployed with an unpublished novel, Julie decides to cook her way through Julia Child's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" in a year and to blog about it. We go back and forth between these stories of two women learning to cook and finding success. Sympathetic, loving husbands support them both, and friendships, too, add zest.

 

The Diplomat (2009): A British diplomat is arrested on charges of working with Russian mafia. After death threats to his wife, they are taken into protective custody. Then the MI6 shows up with a new piece of the puzzle. (IMDB)

 

In The Loop (2009): A political satire about a group of skeptical American and British operatives and diplomats attempting to prevent a war between two countries. Diplomatic relations between the U.S. and U.K. collide with White House and Downing Street warmongers. Features a bit role by James Gandolfini as a U.S. General trying to keep the peacemaker. (IMDB)

 

2010-2019

From Paris with Love (2010): Awful, implausible action thriller starring Jonathan Rhys Meyers as James, an ambitious aide to the U.S. Ambassador in Paris, yet moonlighting for the CIA. On the night he and his girlfriend become engaged, he's assigned to serve as driver/control officer for Charlie Wax, an unorthodox government employee played by John Travolta. James learns that a terrorist cell is preparing to attack the American delegation. The two embark on a wild ride to save the day. Two thumbs down.

 

The Ambassador (2011): Danish journalist Mads Brügger goes undercover as a Liberian Ambassador to embark on a dangerous yet hysterical journey to uncover the blood diamond trade in Africa. (IMDB)

 

Homeland Homeland (2011 - 2020): Emmy-winning spy thriller TV series starring Claire Danes, and loosely based on an Israeli TV series, "Prisoners of War." Although the series is mainly about the CIA, many of the episodes feature State Department plot-lines. Season 4 takes place almost entirely at U.S. Embassy Kabul and U.S. Embassy Islamabad, where Carrie (Danes) is assigned and somehow manages to maintain an implausible cover and keep her job while breaking every international law and FAM reference.  I personally thought the earlier seasons were better, and stopped watching after Season 4. But YMMV. 

 

Fast & Furious franchise (2011 - current): How Hollywood has managed to drag out this story for 20 years and 8 films is beyond my comprehension. Since 2011's "Fast Five," the series has co-starred Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson as Luke Hobbs, who plays a Diplomatic Security Service (DSS) agent. Why a DS agent is investing car thefts is another story. The 2019 spin-off film, "Hobbs & Shaw" was actually quite entertaining and a nice change of pace from the rest of the films (only two of which I've seen).

 

MV5BMTc3MjI0MjM0NF5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwMTYxMTQ1OA@@._V1_SY317_CR0,0,214,317_AL_Argo (2012): Winner of the 2013 Academy Award for Best Picture, Argo is based on a true story. In 1979, Iranian militants stormed the U.S. Embassy in Tehran in November 1979, taking 56 American diplomats hostage. Six American from the consulate section manage to escape and take refuge in the home of Canadian Ambassador Ken Taylor. With few options remaining, CIA exfiltration expert Tony Mendez (Ben Affleck) devices a daring plan to create a phony sci-fi film project called "Argo," visit Iran to supposedly scout filming locations, and smuggle out the Americans as part of the production crew. This film introduced a whole new generation to the work of the U.S. diplomats and the real dangers of life in the Foreign Service. Probably Mr. Crab's favorite film on this list!

 

Get the Gringo (2012): Mel Gibson is a career criminal serving as a prison sentence in Mexico who comes to the attention of a U.S. Consular officer after a series of incidents. Gibson later assumes the identity of the consular officer to break into a prison, for reasons that would be a spoiler alert. (IMDB / Wikipedia)

 

Pulling_Strings-381772697-largePulling Strings / Amor A Primera Visa (2013): This Rom-Com stars B-list actress Laura Ramsey as a Type-A consular officer at U.S. Embassy Mexico City who is focused on nothing but climbing the Foreign Service ladder. She throws herself a goodbye party to celebrate her assignment to U.S. Embassy London (nice link if you can get it). But after a night of heavy drinking, she gets drunk and passes out on the street (Hello? RSO?)  She's rescued by a Alejandro, a mariachi singer whom she had denied for a visa the previous day.  Breaking nearly every State Department rule in the process, Laura falls in love with her visa client. What could possible go wrong!?! In Spanish-speaking countries, the film was more appropriately titled, "Amor A Primera Visa" - a word play on 'Love at First Sight'. 

 

Blue Jasmine (2013): Directed by Woody Allen, the film follows Cate Blanchett as Jasmine, a ruined, mentally troubled New York socialite. After her fall from grace, she hooks up with diplomat Dwight (Peter Sarsgaard), who Jasmine believes will help her social position. The film makes FSOs appear to be fabulously rich and have months of leave for R&R in California and fancy cocktail parties in Vienna. 

 

The Ambassadors (2013): A BBC television comedy starring David Mitchell and Robert Webb as two hapless British diplomats in the fictional republic of Tazbekistan. Appears to have only lasted three episodes. (BBC)

 

Uiraqi_1413979622271Madame Secretary (2014): MADAM SECRETARY stars Tèa Leoni as Elizabeth McCord, the shrewd, determined, newly appointed Secretary of State who drives international diplomacy, battles office politics and circumvents protocol as she negotiates global and domestic issues, both at the White House and at home. A college professor and a brilliant former CIA analyst who left for ethical reasons, Elizabeth returns to public life at the request of the President following the suspicious death of her predecessor. The President values her apolitical leanings, her deep knowledge of the Middle East, her flair for languages and her ability to not just think outside the box, but to not even acknowledge there is a box. McCord's team includes her Chief of Staff Nadine Tolliver, speechwriter Matt Mahoney, press coordinator Daisy Grant and her charming assistant Blake Moran. When McCord debates third world problems, finesses foreign dignitaries at work and does battle with the President's combative Chief of Staff Russell Jackson, it's just a warm-up for when she goes home to her supportive husband, Henry, and their two bright children, where "politics" and "compromise" take on new meaning. (CBS)

 

Embassy SIThe Embassy (2014): Australian reality show following the real work of consular officers at the Australian Embassy in Bangkok. Although the producers have taken some slight over-dramatic licenses, "The Embassy" realistically portrays life and work of consular officers and the help they provide to their citizens. Having worked in American Citizen Services (ACS), I can attest the work of our Aussie counterparts closely mirrors the work of U.S. consular officers. The first full episode of "The Embassy" is available on YouTube. Subsequent episodes are only available on Australia's Channel Nine website, which can be viewed using a VPN. 

 

MV5BMzBkYTRiZTItOGQ5NS00ZWYzLTg4ZDItM2M1NDUzODFhMmZmL2ltYWdlL2ltYWdlXkEyXkFqcGdeQXVyMjI3MTIwODI@._V1_Jeg er aambassadøren fra Amerika (The American Ambassador) (2014-2016) - Another reality show, this time following the daily life of real-life U.S. Ambassador to Denmark, Rufus Gifford. Amb. Gifford was a political appointee and former finance director for President Obama's reelection campaign. The show even won Denmark's equivalent of the Emmy Award, and was written up in Vanity Fair. Apparently it was on Netflix for a while but seems to have vanished. If anyone knows where old episodes can be found, let me know!

 

90 Day Fiancé (2014 - current) - Full disclosure...with the exception of "The Amazing Race," The Two Crabs truly despise Reality Shows. And this one takes the cake. I have managed to only watch 3 or 4 episodes before being overcome by a strong desire to hurl bricks at the TV and "GET A CLUE!" double face palms by the shenanigans of the petitioners & beneficiaries.  That said, I recognize that the entire premise of this show has a strong Foreign Service connection. For those unfamiliar with this series and it's nine spinoff shows (and counting), the title refers to the U.S. K-1 visa process, which allows a U.S. citizen (the petitioner) to sponsor his or her alien partner (the beneficiary) to the United States on a temporary status with the intent to marry - the couple must marry within 90 days or else the partner must return to their home country. Once married, the petitioner can sponsor his/her new spouse for Conditional Lawful Permanent Residency - more commonly known as a "Green Card." Trivia: only the U.S. citizen petitioner gets paid to appear on this show, because by law the alien beneficiary cannot work on a K1 visa.  Good U.S. visa program, bad TV show. 'Nuff said. 

 

Survivor (2015) - A Foreign Service Officer in London tries to prevent a terrorist attack set in New York, but is forced to go on the run after she is framed for crimes she didn't commit. The A-list cast stars Dylan McDermott and Milla Jovovich and directed by James McTeigue.

 

The_Brink_HBO The Brink (2015) - HBO series described as a "dark geopolitical comedy" starred Tim Robbins as the Secretary of State, and Jack Black as a "lowly Foreign Service Officer" assigned to U.S. Embassy Islamabad, and John Larroquette as the evangelical Ambassador. Cancelled after just 1 season.

 

The Diplomat (2015) - An HBO documentary film about the life and work of Amb. Richard Holbrooke, from Vietnam to Afghanistan.

 

Diplomats (2015 - In turnaround) - A comedy film based on Dennis Rodman's "basketball diplomacy" trips to North Korea.  Was announced in 2015 but apparently never filmed. Was to have been directed by "Barbershop" and "Fantastic Four" director Tim Story

 

Stanistan (2015) - A show about a Press Officer at a US Embassy compound in the Middle East. The show was cancelled before the pilot ever aired.  Having worked as a press officer in Afghanistan, I'm thoroughly  disappointed "Stanistan" never became reality.

 

13 Hours: The Secret Soldiers of Benghazi (2016) - Action movie directed by Michael Bay follows the Sept. 11, 2012 attack on the U.S. diplomatic compound in Benghazi, Libya. Horrible film, historically inaccurate, and -- just like the events of Benghazi -- completely politicized. It's pretty clear where Michael Bay's politics lay.

 

Jarhead 3: The Siege (2016) - A direct-to-video movie that is essentially a ripoff of the aforementioned "13 Hours", a group of Marines must protect a US Embassy in the Middle East when it suddenly comes under attack from enemy forces.

 

Mad Dogs (2016) - The plot to this Amazon Prime series loosely based on a British show of the same name just screams SCS (Special Citizen Services). A group of 40-something unhappy men behaving badly in Belize. Of course, their problems become US Embassy Belize's problems. Cancelled after one season; perhaps the filmmakers couldn't pay back their repat loans.

 

Criminal Minds: Beyond Borders (2016 - 2017) - In one of the more ridiculous premises on this list, this "Criminal Minds" spinoff series follows the exploits of the the International Response Team - a fictional FBI unit tasked with rescuing U.S. citizens abroad.  The few episodes we watched were predictable: An American overseas is arrested, threatened or set up with a crime they didn't commit; the Embassy is powerless or too inept to assist, so it's IRT to the rescue. The only Embassy office usually portrayed in a positive light is Diplomatic Security. Even Gary Sinise couldn't save this turkey - the show was cancelled after just two seasons of poor reviews and ratings. 

 

Snatched (2017) - Forgettable film starring Amy Schumer and Goldie Hawn, who are kidnapped in Ecuador and trying to get to safety at U.S. Embassy Bogota.  But the crud comedy makes up with actor Bashir Salahuddin in his role as State Department official named Morgan Russell -- who presumably works for CA/OCS/ACS.  Any Consular Officer who has ever handled Special Citizen Services (SCS) cases will see themselves in Morgan dealing with overbearing family members.  And no, the Embassy cannot deploy the A-Team to rescue your loved one (see "Criminal Minds: Beyond Borders"). 

 

Inside the American Embassy (2018) - Documentary-style reality show about the inner workings of U.S. Embassy London and "Trump's man in Britain," Ambassador Woody Johnson, described by UK Channel 4 as, "a billionaire, close personal friend of Donald Trump."  I watched the second episode which focused on consular operations, even saw a few people I recognized, and was quite shocked at the access the filmmakers were allowed (a little to much). The four-episode docu-series can be found on the Channel 4 website, however you need to use a VPN connected to a UK server, and register for a free account on Channel 4, with a UK mailing address (just make one up, it works fine). 

 

Long_Shot_(2019_poster) Long Shot (2019) - Hilarious Rom-Com starring the lovely Charlize Theron as "S" - the Secretary of State who is running for President in 2020. Seth Rogan, as his usual lovable stoner self, plays a journalist who becomes her speechwriter. FS folks will appreciate several inside DOS/USG jokes. Anyone who has ever served as a control officer for an "S" visit will truly appreciate this film (or trigger nightmares!)  Sadly, this movie was badly marketed and the trailers and posters really did the film injustice. It's definitely worth a watch with a few beers and popcorn in hand.

 

Infidel (2019) - She's Liz, a State Department official. He's Doug Rawlins, an outspoken Christian American blogger played by Jim Cavaziel (The Passion of the Christ). Doug is kidnapped by Iranian spies while on a trip to Egypt where he makes speeches critical of the Iranian regime. The U.S. government refuses to intervene, so Liz travels to the Middle East in attempt to rescue him. Trivia: The film was produced and distributed by far right-wing conspiracy theorist Dinesh D'Souza. 

 

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Good Omens (2019) - An angel and a demon must work to stop Armageddon, brought upon in the form of the Antichrist - who may or may not be the son of a U.S. Diplomat in London! Based on the book. From BBC and available on AmazonPrime. Best quote from EP1: "An American diplomat? REALLY? As if Armageddon were a cinematographic show you wished to sell in as many countries as possible." Great cast starring David Tennant, Michael Sheen, and Frances McDormand as God. 

 

 

 

2020 - current

Christmas in Vienna (2020) - The Two Crabs have a confession: We love cheezy Hallmark Christmas movies. Sorry not sorry! As we are now based in Vienna so we were excited to hear this year's Hallmark Xmas season featured a movie set in Vienna. But we were completely floored to later learn that it was a FOREIGN SERVICE film! Brennan Elliott plays a "Minister Counselor" at U.S. Embassy Vienna, and somehow lives in a palace larger than most Chief of Mission residences. He's also managed to serve in only 0% differential posts with a follow-on assignment to that Hollywood favorite, the nonexistent "U.S. Embassy Zurich!" Like most Hallmark films, it features a predictable plot and mostly unknown actors, but it's one of the better Hallmark flicks.

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The Serpent (2021) - Phenomenal British mini-series based on the real-life French-Vietnamese serial killer Charles Sobhraj, and the young Dutch consular officer Herman Knippenberg who links Sobhraj to the murder of tourists in Thailand. Riveting, on-the-edge-of-your-seat storytelling. A BBC & Netflix collaboration. 

The Diplomat (2023 - current) - When this Netflix series was first announced, I'll admit to rolling my eyes in cringe. I was wrong. Disclaimer this show is a totally fictionalized, overly sensational and only a passing resemblance to life inside a U.S. Embassy. That said, "The Diplomat" is a binge-worthy show featuring a great cast and great writing, created by with great writing. The show was created by Debora Cahn, who previously wrote for "The West Wing," "Homeland" and "Grey's Anatomy," amongst others. Click here to read Cahn's interview at the State Department's National Museum of American Diplomacy. Keri Russell is phenomenal as U.S. Ambassador to the UK Katherine "Kate" Wyler. Netflix announced in October 2024 that "The Diplomat" as been renewed for a third season. 

 

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Camping at Taeanhaean National Park, Korea (태안해안국립공원)

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Over Labor Day weekend, the Two Crabs took a camping trip to Taeanhaean National Park (태안해안국립공원)- a gorgeous seaside park located in the west coast of South Korea on the Yellow Sea. This was the third Korea national park camping experience. Although not as scenic or dramatic as Seoraksan National Park, the campground was the nicest we've experienced in Korea. 

Logo_park_01 Taeanhaean National Park is located a 2-hour drive southwest of Seoul. There are actually several private campgrounds in and around the park, but we stayed at the official National Park campground near the city of Taean. This huge campground is located in a peaceful pine forest just steps from the water.

We arrived on a Sunday morning and most folks were packing up to leave for the weekend. Because Monday was an American holiday, we had a whole campground section to ourselves! Unlike other Korean campgrounds we've experienced, there are no marked spots. You basically put up your tent wherever there's space and place a sticker on your tent. We got the closest spot to the beach!

This campground has lots of amenities including several hot water showers, a rarity at Korean campgrounds -- though you'll pay about $3.50 for the privelege. There's also a camp store, several camp kitchens and plenty of bathrooms. Unusual to Taeanhaean, you can't light a fire on the ground so you need to rent or buy a fire pit from the camp store for $5 a night.  TNP campground costs 30,000 Won, or about $30 a night -- our most expensive Korean camping experience.

Like most Korean campgrounds, there are no picnic tables, so you need to plan ahead; we bought a table from REI last year which has come in handy several times already!

Just outside the borders of the campground, you'll find a little road with several seafood restaurants selling great dishes like 해물탕 (Heh-mul-tang), a stew with assorted seafood like scallops, crabs, oysters, squid and clams for about $40 that will easily feed 2 or 3 people. The little road of restaurants also has some convenience stores, a mobile cafe and even a noraebang (singing room). For hiking and walking fans, there's also a coastline hiking path that stretches more than 40km to neighboring beaches. 

As for the beach itself, don't expect a white sandy beach with palm trees. Like most beaches on Korea's west coast, Taeanhaean has a brown muddy sand beach with shallow water. At low-tide, the water retreats more than half a mile from shore! Hundreds of Korean fisherfolks and families use this opportunity to dig for their supper, mainly clams and other small shellfish. While the beach here may not be the most picturesque by day, you can't beat the amazing sunset views in the evening!

A few scenes from Taeanhaean National Park:

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Tenured!

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After Flag Day and Swearing-In Day, the next most memorable day in a Foreign Service Officer's career is the date he or she TENURED. 

So what is "tenure"? As one of my friends jokingly stated, "Short of punching your boss in the face, you can't be fired." But as in university/academia world, tenure in the Foreign Service means job security. When Entry Level Officers (ELOs) join the Foreign Service, they are hired on a probationary status as limited-appointment, career "CANDIDATES".  ELOs who fail to achieve tenure within 5 years of joining the Foreign Service are separated from the service. About 5% of FSOs fail to get tenure for one reason or another.

Last Saturday morning, I was awoken by my phone buzzing, alerting me to a new incoming email or diplomatic cable. After waiting for more than four years for this news, here it was. The subject line in bold capital letters read: "RESULTS OF THE SUMMER 2014 TENURE BOARD".  I was too nervous to immediately open the e-mail. So after some strong coffee and mentally preparing ourselves, Mrs. Crab and I opened the email together. And scrolled and scrolled and scrolled until there it was, my name in all caps. Tenured baby!

I won't bore you with the specific requirements for obtaining tenure, but you can read it yourself in the Foreign Affairs Manual: 3 FAM 2240.  But here's the summary from the State Department website: 

"The sole criterion for a positive tenuring decision will be the candidate’s demonstrated potential, assuming normal growth and career development, to serve effectively as a Foreign Service Officer over a normal career span, extending to and including class FS-01."

Technically, I've only been "recommended" for tenure. It's not official until we receive U.S. Senate confirmation. And given the lightning speed and bipartisan cooperation shown by our congress lately, it will likely be many many months before we're commissioned as career FSOs. The next step is promotion from FS-4 (ELO) to FS-3 (mid-career status).

The Foreign Service is my THIRD career (after the military and journalism). I absolutely LOVE my FS job and my consular career track. I intend to make the FS my career, and hopefully have a long & fruitful career in the Foreign Service or until I'm hauled away kicking and screaming at age 65 (mandatory retirement age). 


Our First Year in Korea

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Yesterday, the Two Crabs marked our one year anniversary in Korea! We're bummed that our tour is already half over (time flies when you're having fun!) -- but we're looking forward to another year of exploring Korea (and more of Asia) with friends and colleagues!

Highlights of Year 1:

  • Hiking and camping in Korean national parks (Seoraksan, Odaesan and Bukhansan!); 
  • Skiing the slopes of Yongpyong  Phoenix Park -- the main venues for the 2018 Winter Olympic.
  • 3-day ski trip to High 1 Ski resort with 30 colleagues & friends.
  • Weekend bike rides along the Han river, and stopping for drinks and ramen noodles at the many waterfront 7-Elevens!
  • Chillaxin with friends at Doosan Bears Korean baseball games (nothing says baseball like beer, dried squid, fried chicken and cheerleaders!)
  • Exploring the back alleys of Seoul's traditional Hanok villages and markets.
  • Business trips to Busan and Daegu with time to explore.
  • Partying with 10,000 other Koreans and foreigners at the Boryeong Mud Festival (where we were by far the oldest party people).
  • Eating at countless Korean BBQ restaurants (Korean food = AWESOME), and stumbling on great international restaurants.
  • Sampling Korean street food at Namdaemun market.
  • Sampling Korean craft beer and soju...and the occasional Cass swill.
  • Cheap work lunches at hole-in-the-wall restaurants with food that's better than any Korean food we've ever had in the States.
  • Escorting Vice President Biden to the DMZ.
  • Meeting Sec. John Kerry.
  • Working with White House staff during President Obama's visit.
  • Hosting our first overseas guests, Angelina from San Fran and Sarah from Stuttgart!
  • Using my limited Korean language skills to find a toilet, hotel or order food.
  • Growing our own tomatoes, salad, watermelons, green beans and veg in our backyard garden (all Mrs. Crab's doing).
  • Hosting some funtastic backyard BBQs at our home.
  • FLEISCHFEST. 'Nuff said.
  • Making many great Korean and Foreign Service friends and working with the most awesome Consular team ever.

 

Here's to another great year in Seoul!


What does an ACS Consular Officer do?

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When my mom, friends or family ask me what we do for work, I just tell them, "we help Americans abroad". That's the simple answer to the complex work undertaken by consular officers at more than 200 US Embassies and consulates around the world. So while many people still think a consular officer just stamps passports all day long, it's a lot more than that.

Consular Officers fall under the authority of the Department of State's Bureau of Consular Affairs (CA).

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Mission Statement of Consular Affairs:

Safety. Security. Service. Our highest priority is to protect the lives and interests of U.S. citizens overseas. We do this through routine and emergency services to Americans at our embassies and consulates around the world. We serve our fellow citizens during their most important moments – births, deaths, disasters, arrests, and medical emergencies.

Consular work is divided into several specialities, the main ones being American Citizen Services (ACS), Non-Immigrant Visas (NIV), Immigrant Visas (IV) and Fraud Prevention (FPU). At a smaller embassy or consulate, one person may be doing all of the above jobs. But at a larger embassy, there are often separate ACS, NIV, IV and FPU sections, some with dozens of employees. 

For nearly a year, Mr. & Mrs. Crab have both been working in the ACS Section of Embassy Seoul. Mr. Crab is a Consular Officer, while Mrs. Crab is a Consular Associate, an EFM (Eligible Family Member) job that has almost all the same powers and responsibilities as an officer.

As the name implies, ACS deals specifically with American citizens (known as "AmCits" in our field) living, working or traveling through our consular district. The most visible part of the job are the "routine" passport services we provide such as issuing and renewing US Passports, extra visa pages, notarizing documents, and issuing Consular Reports of Birth Abroad (CRBA) for our newest little citizens. Routine services also includes renunciations and relinquishment of U.S. citizenship. In Seoul, we provide routine consular services at the embassy, and also at other major Korean cities and US military bases around Korea as part of our outreach services. 

Behind the scenes is the other half of ACS work: Special Citizen Services, or SCS. These are the most difficult and challenging cases that a consular officer will handle during their career including arrest, hospitalization or death of Americans, victims of crime including rape and sexual assault, destitute or homeless Americans, domestic violence issues, international parental child abduction, missing people reports, deportations, transfer of AmCit prisoners, etc. Many of these cases are further complicated if the individual is mentally ill or has substance abuse problems. The most unpleasant task I've had to do is call an American in the United States and deliver the bad news that their child, parent or loved one has died overseas; it never gets any easier.

If an American becomes an embassy "SCS case" - it's rarely good news. That said, SCS cases can also be the most rewarding, i.e. successfully repatriating a sick or destitute American and reuniting families. And sometimes, SCS cases can be the most entertaining - our fellow Americans get themselves into all manners & sorts of trouble overseas - some of them truly unbelievable! A sense of humor is an absolute must for working in Consular! And, yes, it's true - consular officers have the best stories. 

Apart from routine and SCS cases, we also spend a lot of time on special projects, such as writing and disseminating information to Americans via our monthly newsletters or social media, meeting with local contacts, visiting hospitals, homeless shelters, hostels as potential resources for Americans who need help in Korea. As Voting Officer, I also work to encourage Americans abroad to register to vote by absentee ballot. We also plan and train for the worst case scenario: evacuation of Americans in times of crisis such as war or natural disaster. Consular Officers can also expect to take assist with VIP visits (President Obama, Vice President Biden and Secretary of State Kerry have all visited Seoul in the past 6 months). 

So that's an ACS Officer's duties and responsibilities in a nutshell. It can be challenging and frustrating, but my work in ACS has been the best and most rewarding job I've done. 


Camping & Hiking Seoraksan National Park

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A few weeks ago, the Two Crabs took our second camping trip in South Korea. This time, we went to Seoraksan National Park to take in the autumn colors. Having learned our lesson the hard way, this time we left Seoul on Sunday morning, camped overnight, and returned to Seoul on Monday afternoon, which happened to be an American holiday. What a difference a day makes. There was ZERO traffic...Seoul to Seoraksan was barely 2 hours, 15 minutes drive...our last coast-to-coast trip on a Sunday afternoon took 6 hours!  

We arrived at Seoraksan campground about 10am. Everyone was packing up and leaving for the weekend, so we had our pick of campsites. Most of the folks who remained Sunday night were other Americans enjoying the U.S. holiday. (You can always spot the Americans; they are the ones with REI tents!)  The campground here was much nicer than the place we stayed in Odaesan NP. The sites were larger, many with shade and grassy spots, and plenty of restrooms and camp kitchens. The campsite was about 3x larger than Odaesan so no shortage of space for tent campers.  

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Directly across the street from the campground entrance is a bus stop. Hop on any bus for the 3 mile journey to the park entrance. The bus stops at a Minbak village that is lined with restaurants, hotels, and shops selling very basic camping gear. Good thing too, because Mr. Crab FORGET HIS HIKING SHOES!  All I had were flip-flops! So I had to shell out $30 to buy a cheap pair of hikers.

With our kit ready, we headed into the park. Our goal was to hike 800+ meters straight up to Ulan Bawi (Ulan Rock), one of Korea's most famous mountain peaks. This hike is not for the faint of heart, especially if you have any fear of heights. You'll see why in a minute.

The first half of the hike is relatively tame, passing by a giant Buddha statue, some temples, and a few mom & pop restaurants serving snacks and cold beer.

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When you reach the steps, get ready. Here comes the hard part! Nearly 1km straight up, and the last .4km is a real killer.

IMG_5179The path is a feat of marvel engineering, with staircases built straight into the rock face. Hard to imagine somebody had to haul all this equipment up here!

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The reward: Ulan Bawi (Ulan Rock), with its 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside. Face east, and you can see straight out to the coastline and the Sea of Japan.

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It was about a 2 hour hike to the top.  After only a brief stop to enjoy the views, it was time to head back to make sure we got to the bottom before dark. It was quite dusk by the time we got to the bottom, then caught the bus back to our campsite for a nice campfire and dinner on the grill. 

Incidentally, there are two things you should know about camping in Korea: there are NO HOT SHOWERS. Only ice-cold, military barrack-style communal shower rooms. So unless it's the middle of summer or you truly enjoy taking ice baths with 20 other strangers, you might want to think twice. The other complaint about camping is the sites never have picnic tables. We ended up placing our camp stove on the ground. Cooking on your knees is not easy, so we may have to invest in a little REI folding table. 

WARNING: Rated PG-13 photo below. 

Although we enjoy taking the train, sometimes driving is just easier. By driving, you get exposed (pun intended) to some very interesting Korean roadside attractions. Case in point: Penis Park Rest Stop. Yes, you read that correctly. Actually, it's called Chungjung Sculpture Park. It's located on the road to Seoraksan, about two miles east of where Expressway 60 becomes Route 44. It's part sculpture garden, part highway rest stop. Along with the usual rest stop trinkets, you can also buy green ceramic celedon sculptures, coffee mugs, desk ornaments, and much more!

Ok, here's the rated PG-13 photos. You've been warned!

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In praise of ... biking in Seoul

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Mr. & Mrs. Crab share an common love for biking. When we lived in London, Mrs. Crab commutted to work daily by bike along Regent's Canal. And back in Arlington, Mr. Crab commutted daily to FSI (Foreign Service Institute), uphill both ways. So we were thrilled to learn that Seoul is a very cycle-friendly city. So we sent our bikes in UAB. 

One of the great pastimes and pleasures of living in Seoul is biking. There are hundreds of miles of bike trails in South Korea. You can even bike from Seoul to Busan on the southern tip of Korea in about 4 days, most of it along off-road, paved bike trails.

In Seoul, a 25-mile long bike trail runs along the north and south banks of the Han River. Compared to DC, the bike trails in Seoul have wide "Kramer Lanes!" Even better, there is a separate trail for joggers, walkers and mums with dogs & prams, so no worries about cyclists dodging pedestrians. The trial is lined with extra-curricular activities like outdoor gyms, picnic areas, restrooms, and buskers (street musicians) performing at the many outdoor amphitheaters along the trail. Parts of the north bank is covered by a freeway, shading riders from the blazing Seoul summer sun.

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 The best bit about biking in Korea? Seven-11!  Along the north banks of the Han River, you'll see a handful of Seven-11 convenience stores. Unlike in America, Seven-11s in Asia are more like neighborhood bars & cafes. Many have outdoor table areas where you can enjoy cheap beer, coffee, ice cream, ramen noodles and other snacks.

First-time bikers will not feel out-of-place. Bikers in Korea come in all ages, shapes & sizes. You'll see everyone from cyclists in full professional kit, families in shorts & t-shirts and even folks carrying dogs in their baskets! Also, crime in Korea is extremely low, so no need to worry if your bike will still be there when you return.

We have one major pet peeve about biking in Korea: Korean bikers do not follow standard biking etiquette such as giving audible warnings when passing. In DC or London, you'll get an earful if you fail to ring your bell or yell "on your left" when passing. In Seoul, Lance Armstrong-wannabes have no qualms about flying past you within inches and cutting you off. But then there are other bikers who you can hear coming from afar because they are blaring music via speakers attached to their handlebars! 

A few more scenes of biking in Seoul:

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3 weeks in Seoul

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It's already been three weeks since the Two Crabs landed in South Korea. Three whirlwind weeks of in-processing, learning new jobs, setting up our new home, meetin new friends & colleagues, trying new foods, and exploring our neighborhood.

Despite the short time on the ground, we are already feeling very welcomed here. Even Habibi the cat has settled in quite well. Hopefully it's not just a honeymoon phase, but we really love Korea! The food, the people, the sights and sounds, culture and more.

We live on a U.S. Army post, a situation that takes a bit of getting used. But as the Two Crabs are U.S. Army veterans, we feel right at home! More on that later.

One of the best decisions we made was bringing our bikes in UAB. Although Seoul can be as hilly as San Francisco, Seoul is quite a bikeable city. As Thursday was a Korean holiday (Liberation Day), the Two Crabs spent the day exploring the Han River bike path, which is lined by waterfront picnic areas, restrooms, outdoor gyms and Seven-11s serving cheap beer, ice cream and ramen noodles -- with a view! 

A few images of our first days in Seoul:

  Gwanghwamun Square, with statue of Admiral Yi, who opened up a can of whoop ass against the Japanese Imperial Navy in 1597.
Gwanghwamun Square, with statue of Admiral Yi, who opened up a can of whoop ass against the Japanese Imperial Navy in 1597.
Gwanghwamun Square, with statue of Admiral Yi, who opened up a can of whoop ass against the Japanese Imperial Navy in 1597.

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Gwanghwamun Square, with statue of Admiral Yi, who opened up a can of whoop ass against the Japanese Imperial Navy in 1597.
Gwanghwamun Square, with statue of Admiral Yi, who opened up a can of whoop ass against the Japanese Imperial Navy in 1597.

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Funky Starbucks in Itaewon

 

 


Have Cat, Will Travel: The good, bad & ugly of traveling abroad with pets

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(VERY long post. Skip if you don't have pets!)

Habibi the world travelin' kitty has arrived safely in Seoul, and adjusting to his new home quite nicely!  However, his journey from Washington to South Korea was not the most pleasant experience, for kitty and owners alike. 

A bit of background: we adopted Habibi during our first tour in Bahrain. When we returned to DC for training, Mrs. Crab and Habibi traveled from Bahrain to DC via Amsterdam on KLM - by far the best pet shipping experience to date. Kitty was even fed, watered and walked at the Pet Hotel in Amsterdam. The total cost was about 400 Euros. 

Flash forward to 2013. We began making preparations to export kitty several months in advance. This required a rabies titer test and a complete physical about 6 months before we departed. The most difficult task was finding an airline that would agree to ship Kitty in July; most airlines have very strict pet embargoes during summer months. Some airlines like Delta won't ship pets if the temperature is over 85F degrees at departure or arrival city. Other airlines won't ship pets at all between May and August. The only American carrier that would agree to fly Kitty was United Airlines, via their new PetSafe program. The itinerary was further complicated by the fact that we had to stop in San Francisco for some meetings en route to Seoul. 

United introduced PetSafe about a year ago, and since then, it's been rife with problems. Our relationship PetSafe began about four months before departure. Mrs. Crab booked a reservation for Habibi. However, depending on what day you called and who you spoke to, the total cost quote varied from $559 to $997. PetSafe reps were very confused over their own PetSafe company policy. The few reps who had even heard of the Foreign Service did not understand that State Department employees on government travel orders receive the same benefits as active duty military. On several calls, they attempted to charge us twice for each leg of our itinerary (WRONG: USG employees on orders pay a flat rate, IF the stopover is listed on travel orders). PetSafe reps also had little knowledge of operating procedure at airports. Some reps said we had to drop off or pick up Kitty at airport cargo warehouse (WRONG: State employees can drop off at the terminal check-in desk).  

Flash forward to July 2013. Ten days before traveling, Habibi had to get one final physical to confirm he was healthy enough to travel. The vet's documents had to be validated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture pet office in Richmond, Virginia, which required us to take a day trip down to the capital because Richmond is the only office that handles pet export documents for DelMarVa, DC & WVa.  

On the morning of July 19, we arrived three hours early at Washington Dulles Airport (IAD) for our flight to San Francisco. The United staff were friendly and sympathetic but completely unaware of the PetSafe policy or rates. The United staff called PetSafe's headquarters helpline and spent an hour on the phone, most of that time on hold, to clarify the rates and our elegibility for military benefits. We were finally allowed to pay the flat original rate of $559. However, nobody ever mentioned that we also had to pay $113 in taxes and handling fees, for a total cost of $702!  

After finally sorting everything out, we were instructed to take the cat & carrier to the TSA bag drop area. This place was a madhouse. The TSA officer told us we would have to take the cat out of the carrier so they could Xray the carrier. Habibi was cared shitless, as passengers around us ran by, dumping suitcases, golf clubs and boxes right next to us without any consideration. But that was nothing compared to what happened next. A female TSA officer asked to touch the cat. We're thinking she just wants to pet him. Nope. She proceeded to feel up Habibi from head to tail, including his private kitty bits. Habibi looked horrified and shaking. To add insult to injury, we were instructed to put the shaking cat back in the carrier and never touch him or the carrier again. As we tried to calm the cat, the TSA lady barked at us, "STOP, DON'T TOUCH HIM. BACK AWAY FROM THE CARRIER." That was the last we saw of Habibi at Dulles airport.

On board the plane, Mrs. Crab refused to leave until we received confirmation that kitty was on board. The United flight attendants were very kind and understanding. About 5 minutes before we pushed out, a kind gentleman confirmed Habibi was on board and ready to fly.

About five hours later, we arrived at SFO (San Francisco). No one seemed to know where we could pick up Habibi. The United lost luggage staff had never even heard of PetSafe!  We walked around aimlessly trying to find out where to find our pet. Finally, a very nice gentleman from the SFO's odd sized baggage office took it upon himself to track down Habibi. He finally reached PetSafe's cargo office and arranged for them to deliver Habibi directly to us at the terminal. 

Cat in hand, we took a taxi to Embassy Suites Airport hotel. Only to be told upon arrival that they no longer accept cats, and demanded that we find a new hotel! Never mind that we reconfirmed our cat stay with their front desk several weeks before our arrival. Mrs. Crab demanded they either let us stay or find us a new hotel, at per diem rates, on a busy weekend at the height of SanFran tourist season. By the time we reached our room, they called back and informed us they would make a special exception and would allow us to stay with kitty. Do NOT stay at Embassy Suites Airport if you have a pet.

In preparation, Mrs. Crab called PetSafe to reconfirm that everything was sorted.  On the morning of July 24, we returned to SFO to catch our flight to Seoul. The experience at SFO compared to IAD was night and day. The United staff at SFO International Terminal were completely aware and knowledgeable about how to deal with pet shipping and PetSafe. The United staff escorted to us to a more private, less congested TSA screening area of the airport. There, the kind and considerate TSA agent asked us to take the cat out while he inspected the carrier. He never touched the cat, were allowed to place him back in the carrier and say our goodbyes. Once we were on board, the flight attend even handed us a little card, confirming that Habibi was on board! 

Twelve hours later, we arrived in Seoul. Our sponsor walked us over to baggage claim, where we were presented with a DOG!  After some confusion, they brought out Habibi, who appeared a bit confused but no worse for the wear. We then walked over to the pet inspection station, where the attendant looked over his records and verified his microchip. We were in & out of the airport within 30 minutes. 

All in all, Habibi is fine. He's adjusting quite nicely to our new home in Seoul.

Every employee we dealt with at United and PetSafe were actually very kind folks and were clearly pet lovers. So it's not the staff thats the issue. All the problems at United & PetSafe seems to boil down to a lack of training and lack of dissemination of information. The right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing. We appreciate that UA is now extending military benefits to Foreign Service employees. But UA & PetSafe would do great by better informing and training its staff, especially with regards to company policies.

If you're flying abroad with a pet, do not wait until the last minute. Start planning several months in advance. Keep calling and confirming everything. Take note of the times, dates and name of person you speak with each time. At the airport, bring copies of all your orders, and details of your conversations with PetSafe & United. And of course, make sure your pup or kitty is prepared, especially if they are nervous travelers. It's not easy or cheap to move abroad with a pet. But at the end of the day, our pets are part of our household.  

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We're in Korea!

IMG_4037The Two Crabs have arrived at our new home in Seoul, South Korea! Slightly jet-lagged (typing this entry at 4am) but no worse for the wear. Our house is slightly smaller than our second place in Bahrain, but feels a lot more cozy. Our kitty has adjusted very well, although the trip here for Habibi was not exactly pleasant (more on that in our next blog entry). 

Folks might be surprised to learn that we are living on a US Army base. Mr. & Mrs Crab are both prior Army so we are not unfamiliar with military life. But it's kind of a strange existance. We are civilians but living the military lifestyle!  This base is HUGE. It's little America with movie theaters, bowling alleys, commissary, PX, American fast food places, everyone takes U.S. dollars and speaks English, and even our housing has 110-volt and U.S. plugs even though Korea is 220v with European-style plugs.  It's easy to see why some servicemembers serve their entire tour and never leave the base. But just 5 minutes outside our gate is another country. Hope to do some exploring this weekend, after we adjust to the time zone!

On Monday, I start my new job. Wish me luck! 


PACK-OUT DAY!

Moving-day Today is Pack-Out Day!  Although Seoul will only be my second tour in the Foreign Service, this will be our FIFTH pack-out since joining DOS: London to DC; DC to Bahrain; Bahrain to Bahrain (we were moved to a safer neighborhood due to deteriorating security situation); Bahrain to DC; and now DC to Seoul.  

After 5 moves, we almost have it down to a science. The most important challenge is figuring out what will go to Post and what will stay. And of the stuff going abroad, you need to decide what will go in UAB (Unaccompanied Air Baggage; arrives at Post within 2-3 weeks); HHE (Household Effects; usually goes by ship and can take 6-12 weeks); Washington storage; check-in luggage and carry-on bags. 

Our #1 moving tip: SEPARATE YOUR STUFF!  On our last tour we ended up shipping crap that should have stayed in storage, and stored stuff we could have used at Post. So now we separate everything (HHE/UAB/Storage/Plane) into different rooms. It's very time-consuming but so worth it.  

Full report to come!

CONGEN UPDATE: Mission Accomplished! I graduated ConGen yesterday with flying colors.  And I was named "Mr. ConGen-iality!" I'm not sure what job requirements or benefits come with this title, but I swear (or affirm) that I will serve with distinction. So help me, 214-B.